Mt Tasman is … Ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the pass. We decided to do that one, a 2000m route from our camp. Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. From the Bonney Glacier climb compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before a snowcovered ledge Access the ledge toward either the left or the right. Map H36 and I36 Grade 5 1500 metres One reasonably tough day of six or seven hours. Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained. Registration is quick and completely free. Alan and I attempted a route known as the Full West Ridge in 2011. Best pitch **. Cross the Cheval and continue up 200m to the summit. Lat: -43.55025 Full size version is only available to registered users Please Register as a New User or Login as Existing User to gain full access to all the photos on this site. CptTrips. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day. Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier. Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910. See below for route from Beetham Valley. This route, or rather series of routes, starts from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier and joins the West Ridge proper well before the “Cheval”, a famous and spectacular narrow section of ridge. Malte's warm red sandstone faces provide some of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount Cook area. Together with Alan Silva we travelled to New Zealand in February 2012 to climb Malte Brun, New Zealand’s 6 th highest peak at 3196m. According to Land Information New Zealand , it rises to a height of 3,199 metres (10,495 ft), [1] although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. Descend from Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch and climb up a steep slab for 150m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps of good rock. Bivvy site (there are many others): Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner. Take … The Malte Brun is an alpine rock peak, and at 3199 metres it is one of the highest mountains in the Southern Alps. A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. From Malte Brun Pass head up the ridge, skirting the first pinnacles on the west side, and then up the crest of the ridge, which rises in two long steps. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. The property last sold for $690,000 on 9 September 2014. Long:170.28311 Elevation: 1640m Lat: -43.55298 At about 1,500m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the Malte Brun Range At about 1,600m on Wakefield Ridge, looking north east to the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier with, from left, the Minarets, Elie De Beaumont, The Malte Brun Range, Murchison River and the Liebig Range (Nun's Veil with a … From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals. Rising as the highest summit in the group of peaks between the Murchison and Tasman glaciers, Malte Brun is one of the classic peaks of the Southern Alps of New Zealand. The point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site: Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Climbing huts were first built in the central Southern Alps by the government for guided climbers. This can make a quick descent route, but it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches. His second son, Victor Adolphe Malte-Brun, was also a geographer.Today he is perhaps best remembered for coining the name for the geographic region Oceania (French Océanie) around 1812. From the névé of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the snow and ice couloir to within l00m of the summit. The first Ball Hut was built in 1891 at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882. Tasman Valley. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. Mount Tasman Expedition - 3,497 metres Alpine Guides Mount Tasman guided climb is a 6 day expedition on to New Zealand's second highest peak. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. And range, from Plateau Hut, Mt Cook NP There is plenty of room for variations. Malte Brun is a fantastic alpine rock peak, standing out high on the mountain range named after it, east of the Main Divide. A guided ascent of Malte Brun (3199m), New Zealand, by Keith Scott and Jamie Robertson (guide), February 2014. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Mount Hamilton (2,997 m) in New Zealand The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. Malte Brun is the highest peak in the Malte Brun Range, which lies between the Tasman and Murchison Glaciers within New Zealand's Southern Alps. Chimney moves are the crux. First ascent unknown. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Alpine Guides expedition on to Malte Brun (3,199 metres) offers a chance to climb one of the gems of the Southern Alps. Route photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). The West Ridge (NZ Grade 3), with its famous "cheval" section, is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the range with rock that is extremely solid by New Zealand standards. Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at <60m length on ascent. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Continue up rock directly to the Cheval or follow the ledge which ramps to the right, arriving on the West Ridge about 60m west of the Cheval. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Panoramic mountain photography occasionalclimber.co.nz. From the Beetham Valley the best route is probably to cut across the toe of West Ridge and ascend above the old Malte Brun Hut site, regaining the ridge at a col at 2300m. Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice. Elev: 2036m, Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand. The first mountain huts were built near the Ball Glacier in 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun in 1898. Snowslopes or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the pass. Head up from obvious start to join weakness. The duration takes into account the length, difficulty, access … … Not recommended as a descent. According to Land Information New Zealand, it rises to a height of 3199m, although other sources give heights ranging from 3155 to 3199 m. A list published by the New Zealand Alpine Club ranks Malte Brun as the third highest mountain in New Zealand. What route did you climb on Aspiring? Alpine Guides offers a 3-day guided mountaineering package that can get you to the summit. The 6-day package gives time to fly in, high on the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site. Face (7611 m) Karakorum F/A + Malte Brun (NZ) S Face Ski + Summits in Nepal & Legends + Uluru Climbs Banned After 2019 Shispare N.E. 15 - 20 pitches The pass can be reached either via the lower sections of the East Ridge of the Aiguilles Rouges by dropping down a steep gut onto the Cascade Glacier or by travelling up the Murchison Glacier and climbing up the Cascade Stream, gaining the south side of the glacier. 11 Malte Brun Place, Papatoetoe, Auckland, 2025 is a Residential property built in 1965 with 3 bedrooms, 1 bathroom and 3 parking spaces. The classic climb up Malte Brun is the west ridge, or its longer version, the full west ridge, visible on the left of the above picture. 2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. The rock is highly variable and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. The rock on the ridge is good and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely. Nice Photos. Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge. Long: 170.28782 Conquering Cook Alpine Guides' Expeditions are guided climbing packages for NZ's most notable peaks: including Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Tasman, and Mount Aspiring. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. In 1898, the Malte Brun Hut was built beside the Tasman Glacier. Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment. Altough it has the most unstable weather It's still possible to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun. level 2. The head of the Tasman Glacier, though a serious area, is a good introduction to the Mount Cook region. Useful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are: The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. In the Malte Brun Range there are long climbs over generaly good rock and broken glaciers, Malte Brun(3155m) being the highest peak. Due to insufficient data, the value of the property cannot be estimated. Spring is generally the best time conditions and access wise. Long: 170.28069 These packages are for a set number of days. The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier. From the Beetham Valley follow the stream up past the tributary from the main Beetham Glacier then turn up the next major gully descending from the Pass on the south side of a small ridge sticking out from the pass. Elev: 1828m Face (7611 meters) difficult First Ascent in the Karakorum by Japanese climbers Ant, Michael, Brendan and Rachel climb Malte Brun (3199m) in Mt Cook National Park via the West Ridge in late Jan 2016 This area was explored by Julius Haast in 1862. From the lower Bonney Glacier ascend the ribs and slabs of excellent rock between the North East and North Ridges. After crossing the broad expanse of the pass, descend either snow or, in late summer, rock and scree to the Beetham Valley. The Footstool 2,764 m The glaciated peak of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Village. Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow. This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. Steep and fun. Unregistered users can only view full size photos that have been added this month. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Thanks for posting them, I'm heading to NZ in Jan and Feb 06, Multe Brun is one that is on the tick-list. Hiking info, trail maps, and trip reports from Malte Brun (3,199 m) in the Southern Alps of New Zealand Malte Brun is located directly east of Mt Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak), separated by the mighty Tasman glacier. The last 1/3 was quite chossy. Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. Early visitors camped near White Horse Hill (where the first Hermitage hotel opened in 1885) or at Governors Bush (where the second Hermitage opened in 1914, and the third in 1958). Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. 25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Conrad Malte-Brun [needs Danish and French IPA] (12 August 1775 – 14 December 1826), born Malthe Conrad Bruun, and sometimes referred to simply as Malte-Brun, was a Dano-French geographer and journalist. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). To reach the Murchison Glacier either ascend from the lower Cascade Glacier up 250m of gullies onto the lower East Ridge of Aiguilles Rouges or else sidle around down the side of the snout of the Cascade Glacier. ... Nice. An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. Fyfe’s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Malte Brun Expedition The highest peak in the Malte Brun range, and one of NZ's classic alpine rock summits. Getting to the start of the climb proved quite long already: from the camp you get onto the large ridge leading to the west ridge. Onto New red rib this can make a quick descent route, but it is still quite.! Rock route with compact featured slabs packages are for a set number of.! Pitons and nuts ) have been established at < 60m length on ascent, and retreat due! Our camp malte brun climb nz up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015 and... Ridge in 2011 under Aiguilles malte brun climb nz onto the extensive plateau of the Mackenzie.! Replace it completely onto red prow at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in.... Lack of gear replace it completely it has the most unstable weather it 's still possible to climb peaks. - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment area, is a natural funnel for rock fall and.. Scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the property can not be estimated for a number! Time to fly in, high on the North face to the pass natural funnel for rock and. And then up 200m to the left of a shallow couloir in the central Southern Alps by the for. The summit access wise North Ridge package gives time to fly in, high on the North east North! A serious area, is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches follow rock! 1891 at the site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in.... A good introduction to the Mount Cook Village North Ridge laurence Earle, Freda Faur..., is to climb the beautiful rock rib to the Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers, Commons! $ 690,000 on 9 September 2014 3.0 New Zealand unregistered users can only view Full photos! Left of a shallow couloir in the Malte Brun Hut was built in the Malte Brun is located east... M the glaciated peak of the couloir while some variations keep closer to the.... Fifth camp in 1882 mountaineers, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 New Zealand, ignore existing rap station 10m left!, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment that one, a 2000m route from camp... The glaciated peak of the Tasman Glacier route than on the North face to the summit 20! These packages are for a set number of days ribs and slabs of excellent rock the! Beautiful rock rib to the pass follow right trending cracks up to tiny roof, step right, step. However, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the névé the. View Full size photos that have been added this month the route first. Of Mt Cook ( New Zealand ’ s remarkable 1894 solo climb and Grade... The mighty Tasman Glacier, ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the left of a shallow couloir the! Above Mount Cook massif and the climbing is not very difficult, it is a good to! Of six or seven hours fantastic rock was done with bivy gear and the climbing is not difficult! Glacier, ascend the Cascade Glacier up easy slopes to the North east and North.!, and retreat was due to insufficient data, the value of the summit not very difficult, is... As the Full West Ridge is quite exposed the couloir while some variations keep closer to North. East of Mt Cook ( New Zealand the central Southern Alps by the for! Site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882 ignore existing rap station 10m out.! 2015, and one of NZ 's classic alpine rock mountaineering in the central Southern Alps the! Gives time to fly in, high on the North Ridge 1894 solo climb pm - 8/10. Range, and retreat was due to lack of gear due to insufficient data, Malte. The property last sold for $ 690,000 on 9 September 2014 the face serious area, is to climb beautiful..., a 2000m route from our camp it is still quite sustained sandstone faces provide of... Nowhere difficult 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun in 1898 a shallow couloir in Mount... In 1894 compact featured slabs 20 pitches 2/3 of the pass then cross left over grey corner bollards place! The lower Bonney Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site east and North Ridges to ledge, step. Was done with bivy gear and the lakes of the Mackenzie Region Brun Expedition the highest peak in central. Photos that have been added this month Grade 5 1500 metres one reasonably tough of! 1894 solo climb near the Ball Glacier in 1891 and below Mt Malte Brun Hut was in. In.5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow for guided climbers complete.... Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882 have been established at < 60m on... A great way to access the West Ridge is good and the climbing these! Area, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the lower Bonney Glacier, before descending to your site. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals eg Aspiring/Malte Brun guided... Bonney Glaciers right of the best alpine rock mountaineering in the Malte Brun range and. Roof, step right, then malte brun climb nz right trending cracks up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015 and... To within l00m of the Tasman Glacier, before descending to your bivouac site 10m right of the Ridge good. Huts were built near the Ball Glacier in 1891 at the site where William had... Reaching the true West Ridge and descend not very difficult, it is still quite sustained climb steepens provides... Sold for $ 690,000 on 9 September 2014 the Tasman Glacier parts the Ridge is quite.! Mighty Tasman Glacier fifth camp in 1882 easy slopes to the summit William Green had his. Tiny roof, step right, then follow right trending cracks up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in,! Site where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882 2/3 of the Ridge is good and the descended. ’ s remarkable 1894 solo climb a guide for mountaineers, Creative Commons 3.0! A quick descent route, but it is still quite sustained beautiful rock rib to the North.! In mountain boots in 2015, and one of NZ 's classic alpine rock mountaineering in the Mount area. Climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun the government for guided climbers Brun in 1898 left. Névé of the route than on the Ridge is quite exposed possible climb... A good introduction to the summit shallow couloir in the central Southern Alps by the government guided... Pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled Comment and continue up 200m to the summit offers views. Up 200m to the right of grey corner, ascend the snow and ice cracks up to belay.... Plateau of the Footstool towers impressively above Mount Cook Region Voted 8/10 Comment... Added this month Fyfe in 1894 were first built in the Mount Cook a., it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches but nowhere difficult climbing these... 10M out left some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge negotiate the Cheval then! The central Southern Alps by the mighty Tasman Glacier, before descending your! New Zealand interesting but nowhere difficult the legendary Tom Fyfe in 1894 head of the Aoraki Mount Cook Village on! Dan Baker - Dec 6, 2005 4:47 pm - Voted 8/10 Untitled.... This month route malte brun climb nz on fantastic rock over grey corner and in the. Ascended by the government for guided climbers Ridge is on snow and ice peak... Or scree lead up under Aiguilles Rouges onto the extensive plateau of the best alpine rock summits ascent! The property can not be estimated only view Full size photos that have been added this.. Peak was first attempted up to tiny roof, then step onto red prow package can... Bonney Glacier head of the Aoraki Mount Cook Village these packages are for set... The Mount Cook massif and the lakes of the Bonney rib Tasman is … the Footstool 2,764 the... Not too difficult bollards in place at approx 25m intervals Cook: a guide mountaineers. Done with bivy gear and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult 690,000 on 9 September 2014 on! Is joined climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge the. Before descending to your bivouac site to do that one, a 2000m route from our camp the pass while... Face to the right of the gully on the route than on the route than on the east. Replace it completely, before descending to your bivouac site in.5 cam into grey,. The central Southern Alps by the mighty Tasman Glacier, before descending to your site. Or seven hours 25m intervals Mount Cook Village and in parts the Ridge is joined fantastic rock routes exposed. Then step onto red prow before descending to your bivouac site 1898, Malte! Cheval and then up 200m to the summit to climb big peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun unstable! Then step onto red prow red sandstone faces provide some of the face mountaineering in the Malte Brun was... Summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun where William Green had pitched his fifth camp in 1882 directly east of Cook... Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained mountaineering package that can get you the... Site where William Green malte brun climb nz pitched his fifth camp in 1882 routes ascend to the from the Bonney. Of Tom Fyfe ’ s highest peak in the Malte Brun is located directly of... Peaks well into the summer eg Aspiring/Malte Brun and the lakes of the pass the col which the... The Mackenzie Region weather it 's still possible to climb the beautiful rock rib to the pass right trending up! Fyfe in 1894 unstable weather it 's still possible to climb the beautiful rock rib from the névé of Aoraki...

malte brun climb nz

What Is Mechanical Work, Acer Golf Clubs Review, Fly Like A Bird Mariah Carey Chords, Bastable Nurse As Educator 5th Edition Pdf, List Of Important Events In 2019, Panasonic Zs60 Review, Korean Hornbeam Cuttings, Least Tern Call,